Mardi Gras is over, the French Quarter Festival has just begun and the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival is less than a week away. From 1999 until 2019, I had only missed Jazz Fest three times. This was a very important time for me, as the city of New Orleans was and still is, very important to me. Of course, there are the obvious reasons- music, food, warm weather.
But it's mostly the people.
The people.
The people of New Orleans somehow managed to calm me down. I didn't move
as fast. I had patience. I smiled a lot. Some friends joked that I was taller in New Orleans. It wouldn't be wrong
to attribute all of that to simply being on vacation, except the key to
it all was that I never felt like I was on vacation. I was at home. New Orleans is full of invaluable intangibles. You either get it or you don't.
The picture you see up top, is where you would find me most of the time. It wasn't just about the Festival. Sitting one short story above the corner of Royal & St. Philip was like floatation therapy. I'd sit for hours and just observe. It was both incredibly entertaining and often very peaceful.
The horse and buggy tours that drove by a dozen times a day thrilled me on every pass. The horse clomped on by and the driver/tour guide pointed up, excitedly sharing, "That balcony is where Elvis Presley sang King Creole." You'd hear that six blocks away. Across town. No one cared. According to those tour guides, Elvis filmed "King Creole" on just about every balcony in New Orleans. But if you were in the backseat, enjoying the tour, any one of those balconies would do. You were satisfied. On my balcony, I was satisfied. It was another of those invaluable intangibles.
There were also long stretches of beautiful silence, dotted with an occasional reverberating trumpet in the distance that I can still hear when I need to.
Evenings, right around 6:P.M., a voice, so beautifully haunting, would summon those who were listening.
"Pie lady. Piiiiiiiiie laaaady."
That voice, with the natural reverb
of the Quarter, always tore my heart in two. I'd wait until her voice
got closer. And there she was. Tall and beautiful, pushing a cart
with her homemade pies. I never moved so fast in my life. Down the
steps, out the door, and up the block.
"Dinner or dessert," she would ask. Wrapped haphazardly in foil and
saran, she'd offer lemon, cherry or meat. I'd buy all three. One night I
asked, "How do you do out here?" I had never heard a voice so beaten and yet so grateful. "Not so good tonight, but it'll get better tomorrow."
One morning, early, I had just come back from a walk. Grabbed a
coffee and the Times-Picayune. Viola, the housekeeper of the twelve units
that comprised the building on that corner, had stepped out onto the
adjacent balcony to cook a smoothie.
"Good morning, Mr. Sal."
One look at Viola and you could feel 75 years of struggle. Yet she was only 46. And she had 4 grandchildren.
"Mr. Sal, can I ask you a question? I'm having trouble with my
credit cards. They keep calling me and telling me I have to pay. But I
know I paid them. I was thinking, since you're a lawyer and all, maybe you
can call them and get them off my back."
"Viola, I'm not a lawyer."
"Yeah, but they don't know that."
You either get it or you don't.
One
night there were five of us and somewhere out there, either Uptown or over on
Bourbon, or maybe on Frenchmen Street, it was happening. But the balcony, my balcony was happening for us. Beer in
the fridge. A bottle of Wild Turkey even closer. James Booker was on
the box. "True," from Montreux. How do you get five lamped people to shut
the hell up? Play Booker's "True," from Montreux. That balcony was happening and
Booker was taking names. That balcony was our home away from home four times a year from 1999- 2007 and I miss it terribly. It became a year round residence a few years after Katrina and we found a new home away from home just around the block. There is a balcony, but it's smaller and higher and the view is of buildings and hotels towering over downtown New Orleans. It's not the same, but what is?
Each year, I would compile a CD featuring artists performing at the Fest,
mixed with artists and songs that felt right for the mix. I called
it the Fest Companion and I would mail it out to the small group of
friends that would be taking the trip. Most of them
loved getting the mail and the music. By the third or fourth Fest
Companion, I'd receive calls and e-mails wondering when the new edition
would be arriving. It was an amazing time.
Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans?
When one of my friends received the CD, he replied:
"Thanks. I'll save it for when I get back so I can have a good cry."
That's what it means to miss New Orleans.
You either get it, or you don't.
I think my last "Fest Companion" was in 2012, so this one is a long time coming.
QUICK NOTES:
One of the best things about walking the grounds of the festival, aside from the food, is that at any given time of the day, you can wander into any one of the tents---blues, gospel, jazz---or over to the open stages---Fais Do Do, Heritage---and hear something wonderful. But as long as I see two particular artists, Astral Project & Germaine Bazzle, I am good to go for the entire trip
Astral Project is a jazz quartet featuring four New Orleans legends---Tony Dagradi, Steve Masakowski, James Singleton and John Vidacovich. The music they play is hard to describe, other than it is an otherworldly type of jazz I have never heard outside of New Orleans.
The first time I saw Germaine Bazzle it was love at first sight. It was my first Jazz Fest, so I was at the mercy of my friends, who just knew I would love her. She is elegant and hip. Sassy and brilliant. Ella, Sarah, Anita and Bessie all wrapped up in one and still a complete original. Miss Bazzle just celebrated her 90th birthday and I know this year's performance will be a special one.
In the wake of Jon Batiste's 300 Grammy wins, I decided to pull out something from 2005, a cover of Maroon 5's "This Love" from Trombone Shorty's album "Orleans & Claiborne," which features Batiste on keyboards. Both Jon and Shorty were 19 at the time.
(P.S. Troy "Trombone Shorty" Andrews was my neighbor for a few weeks on that balcony. I'd say I knew him when, but I already knew it then!)
If that photo of me on the balcony had an accompanying song, it would be Jon Cleary's instrumental take on Johnny "Guitar" Watson's "We're No Exception." Or maybe it's "Burgundy Street Blues" by Dr. Michael White. Both are too beautiful for words.
This is it from me until I return on May 7th. (Well, there will be one more SOTW post on Sunday.) My bud BuzzBabyJesus will be minding the shop with a couple of posts to keep you busy while I am gone, so show him some love. The side bars--SOTD, Today's Cover, Best Thing etc., will return when I return.
I will not be posting on the blog while I am away, but if you're interested in the music I am hearing, the food I am eating or just some picture postcards from New Orleans, I will be very active on Instagram, which you can access by clicking the photo underneath the "One Sentence Review" on the left.
See you soon.
TRACKLIST
Break In The Road- Betty Harris & The Meters
This Is My Country- Cyril Neville
Nuevo Boogaloo- The Iguanas
Function At The Junction- Tin Men
We're No Exception- Jon Cleary
Big Shot- Astral Project
Fat Man- New Orleans Nightcrawlers
Mize Pa Dous- Leyla McCalla
Lottle Mo '68- Lee Dorsey
All These Things- John Boutte
All Behind You Now- Galactic
This Love- Trombone Shorty
If You're Lonely- James Booker
Burgundy Street Blues- Dr. Michael White
Sing It- Marcia Ball, Irma Thomas, Tracy Nelson
Surrey With The Fringe On Top/Bazzle's Blues- Germaine Bazzle
Saints- The Wild Magnolias
20 comments:
I had a long and busy, even frantic day. A lot of prep for an interview, then the interview, then RUSHING to take a nun to the airport and then the usual tending to my 93 year old mom. I have 47 things to do on another story but I just needed to rest. Lo and behold, this gem about taking it easy in the Big Easy. Sweet stuff. I'm happier when you're in New Orleans. When you get back, explain to us why you didn't move there. Enjoy!
P.S. Have you grown? You seem taller.
Well it’s certainly not the same as being there but this is a great read. Thoroughly enjoyed it and am gonna cut out some time this weekend for a good listen with a couple of sazeracs.
First day of French Quarter Fest included Kermit Ruffins (very good, I was surprised and a little relived), and Paul Sanchez and the Rolling Road Show. Sanchez was fantastic. I heard him last time, three years ago and he was good, but this was special. He brought on several friends to sing and it was clear they were all having a great time, despite some issues with the sound. Tomorrow, George Porter Jr., Rickie Lee Jones, The Iguanas and The Queen of New Orleans Soul, Miss Irma Thomas.
sclinchy - Paul has had some very serious medical issues that let his ability to sing in doubt. Thanksfully, he overcame them.
Sal - fantastic mix. And your observation re how do you get 5 people to quiet down is so damn "True." Enjoy my old hometown.
Have a great trip! Stay safe. Maybe next year I'll check out the festival. I have only been to NOLA once, back in 2002
Laissez les bons temps rouler!
I really enjoyed this post today. I haven't been back to NOLA since a couple of months before Covid lockdowns started and I miss it. Hope you get everything you need and more during your upcoming trip. Have a mandarin orange iced tea,on me. On a scorching hot day, it'll save your life. True story.
Have a great trip Sal! It's been 10 years since I've been to NO and reading your post made it clear that it's long overdue that I get back there.
Thanks for the Instagram nudge, Sal, didn't realize you were on there. Have a great time in New Orleans.
Have you ever considered publishing a book of short stories?
Looking forward to the mix - have a great time and see ya when you get back!
Randy
Totally agree with you about NOLA calming you down and being in peaceful bliss. I still have every one of your Fest Companions! Have fun 1st weekend - I'll be there 2nd weekend! pkk
Great writing. And looks like a great mix. My last JazzFest was the last one - 2019 - and I'm not able to go this year, so I am HELLA jella-ous. Damn. But I'm glad you are in your happy place, enjoying one of the best places on earth.
I can only imagine how the crowd will be, getting to see it all unfold in person, in all its glory, for the first time since 2019. Damn. Wish I were there!
Have the best time (like you need me to tell you). And please stay as COVID careful as possible...
I will make do with the new mix, which will be tacked on to my ever expanding "Sal's NOLA mixes" playlist.
And while you might not be a lawyer, we always respect your arguments and look forward to your JazzFest summation.
Buen Viaje!
Beautiful!. Enjoy.
Great post about a favorite special place. You know. See on Ursaline st.
Listening to it now, very enjoyable, thanks again!
Sal thanks for a great playlist. Enjoy your trip and say hello to Miss LaDonna!
Love the Cheap Trick T-shirt, BTW.
Thanks so much. Have a great trip.
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